Some say it is the King of Cheeses, and I’m partial to this accolade. Some years ago, I was asked to work on a Bergkase project, and there was no doubt we were dining on cheese fit for a royal banquet. The aroma hits you first—earthy, dank cellar, and a hint of decay, a “dirty foot” smell. What’s happening with this cheese is a carefully managed flora that, when healthy, creates a symbiotic balance of surface smear and perfect ripening of the cheese paste under the intense eye of the cellar master, a term without gender.

The aging of Gruyère begins after brining and may continue for up to 18 months. These months involve careful handling, including washing the surface with a salt brine and gently wiping it with a cloth or soft brush to maintain a healthy surface. The surface smear, with its characteristic orange-tan color, is instantly recognizable. The pleasantly tantalizing odor masks the greatness of the cheese until it is aired out, cut, and savored, often with an accompanying drink of red wine or paired with a well-aged steak. Fine dining and Gruyère make great companions.

As I mentioned, Gruyère, Bergkase, Abondance, Beaufort, and Comté make up the grand family of top-shelf mountain cheeses. Gruyère is from Switzerland, Bergkase from Germany/Bavaria, and Abondance, Beaufort, and Comté from France. While each reflects the terroir of the region from where the milk originates and the area in which the cheese is made, they are uniquely different and each deserves to be appreciated in its own right.

So, what prompts an out-of-the-blue commentary on Gruyère?

The big reveal can wait, and the namesake can be groomed for the day down the road when it becomes a reality. In the meantime, the cheesemaker and the cellar master will develop their routine, refine their skills, and prepare what could become another great American classic, earning a place at the table of the best cheeses in the world.

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